Clarified Home Inspections Blog

Ice damming is one of those conditions that I encounter fairly often and is often misunderstood and improperly treated. So I thought I would do my best to explain the phenomenon and give my suggestions as to how it should be corrected.

Ice damming occurs when the temperature is below freezing but snow located over a warmer area of the roof of the house melts and runs down the roof line into a colder area, often out over the eaves or an unheated porch, and then refreezes. As this process continues through several freeze/thaw cycles, the area of refreezing becomes a raised ridge, similar to a dam in a river holding back a lake. The melt water pools behind the ridge of ice, and often backs up under the shingles causing a leak and water damage to the roof sheathing, structure and the interior of the home.

Often people mistakenly think that the presence of ice damming means they need new roof covering, but in fact, a brand new shingled roof can be susceptible to ice damming. The problem is not the covering but unwanted heat which is escaping into the attic space causing the snow to melt. If there is no house heat-driven melting, there will be no ice damming.

So why is there so much heat in my attic anyway? 

Well, mainly because heat rises. Inside a house, a phenomenon known as the stack effect occurs where the warm air rises to the highest point of the home creating low pressure in the lower areas where replacement fresh air is drawn in perpetuating the cycle, similar to what occurs with hot gasses in a chimney. If there are any gaps or cracks in the ceiling below the attic, through light fixtures, the attic hatch, around plumbing stacks, electrical wiring, chimney chases, or gaps in the finishings, warm moist air is pushed into the attic space. Also, since the house air is humid and contains water vapour that will cool once in the attic space, the water vapour will condense into liquid water releasing even more unwanted heat (and moisture).

Since the warmest air in the house is against the highest ceiling surfaces, depending on the amount of attic insulation, heat conducts through the insulation and warms the attic air. There will always be heat conduction through the insulation but having a sufficient amount of properly installed insulation will reduce this portion of the attic heat load to an acceptable level.

Skylights are another source of attic heat because the chase around the skylight is often poorly insulated allowing heat into the attic and the glass surface at the roof loses a large amount of unavoidable heat energy to melt the roof snow built-up over the skylight.

Another possibility is that either a bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan or dryer exhaust improperly vent into an attic delivering a large amount of warm moist air into the attic space which can be an aggravating factor for causing ice damming.

To remove any heat that escapes into the attic, the space requires adequate ventilation. This is typically comprised of some combination of soffit, gable, roof or ridge vents. The Ontario Building Code prescribes a minimum total vent area of 1/300^th of the roof area for sloped roofs, with 50% in the soffit and 50% near the top of the roof. Many homes have an insufficient amount of or improperly located roof vents which does not allow the excess heat and moisture to be vented out of the attic and thus the attic is kept above freezing and the snow above melts.

In some houses where blown-in insulation has been added, if precautions are not taken, often the soffit vents can become blocked with insulation. Also, roof vents can become blocked with snow, effectively disrupting the natural ventilation process.

Counter intuitively, the snow on the roof itself can actually insulate the roof surface, trapping the heat in the attic space allowing the air to slowly transfer its heat energy to the snow above turning it into water.

Ok, what can I do?

• Seal the attic space from the house to eliminate all air flow. A complete air barrier needs to be in place. All ceiling gaps must be sealed. Ensure that all ventilation fans and ducts exhaust out of the house and not into the attic.
• Improve the attic insulation by replacing or topping up to achieve the desired thermal resistance. Modern houses have R-40 insulation installed in the attic.

A very good solution is to have the insulation removed from the attic, have the attic side of the roof sprayed with a closed cell polyurethane foam to form a complete air barrier and then have loose insulation blown in over top to achieve the desired thermal resistance.

• Increase the amount or change the location of existing attic vents to ensure that the attic has adequate ventilation to shed any heat and moisture.

Now that measures have been taken to prevent the ice damming from occurring, consider installing some precautions to prevent it from causing damage if it still happens.

• Install a secondary water proof rubberized membrane under the shingles, which will protect the roof and keep the water out in the event that it backs up under the shingles.
• Consider installing a metal roofing system, which is resistant to ice damming.
• As a last resort, electrical cable ice melt systems can be installed on the roof at the eaves to melt any ice which accumulates, however this is a band aid solution and it is much better to solve the heat loss issues.

Due to the unregulated nature of the industry, the scope, level of detail and the type of report that you get from a home inspection can vary dramatically from inspector to inspector. If you are wondering whether your home inspector has checked the essentials, this checklist should help you determine if the important aspects and areas of the home have been inspected.

What’s Included?

Roof – Surface covering and roof sheathing, presence and adequacy of roof ventilation, plumbing stacks and skylights, chimneys, gutters and down spouts, soffit and vents.

Exterior – Wall cladding (brick, siding, stucco, etc), trim and sidewall vents, windows and window wells, doors, exterior foundation, grading and roof water management system, driveways, walkways, stairwells, fences and retaining walls. Deck structure and foundations, stairs, handrails and guards. Exterior receptacles and lights.

Plumbing – Condition of waste, portable, and vent pipes. All fixtures such as showers, faucets, toilets, basins and traps, laundry facilities connections, functional checks of all fixture water supplies and drainage, water heater, floor drains, shutoff valves, water meter.

Attic – Attic ventilation, roof framing, roof sheathing, roof construction type, firewall, insulation type, quantity and presence of a vapour barrier. Presence or evidence of animals and/or insects.

Electrical – Service entry mast, conduit, distribution panel, subpanels branch wiring, circuit breakers/fuses, receptacles, ceiling fans, exhaust fans, light fixtures, switches, grounding and bonding, GFCI and AFCI safety devices.

Ventilation – Kitchen, bathroom and laundry exhaust vents, dryer exhaust vents, exhaust fan functionality, heat recovery ventilators.

Heating – Furnace condition, oil tanks and gas lines, radiators, hydronic system piping, expansion tanks, makeup water supply, pressure reducing valves, backflow prevention valves, exhaust piping, and chimney connections, thermostat, furnace sizing, return air, distribution pipes, air filters, functional performance, condensation lines.

Cooling – Exterior condenser unit, refrigerant lines, functional performance, condensation lines and cooling sizing.

Interior – Ceilings, walls, interior doors, windows, smoke detectors, floors, stairwells, handrails and guards, shower and bath surrounds, cupboards and counter tops.

Garage – Roof sheathing and ceilings, garage door, automatic openers and safety interlocks, light fixtures, receptacles, firewall, windows, concrete pad and foundation walls, gas proofing and required man door self closers, un-safe shelving, hose bibs.

Appliances – Most home inspectors have no training on how to inspect appliances and are in no better position to inspect the refrigerator then you are. After all, we are home inspectors and not appliance repair men. As such, it is not typical to have them included in the inspection. Some inspectors however will include them. If the appliances are part of the deal, ask your real estate professional what provisions are in the contract to protect your interests.

What’s not?

In order to prevent potential property damage on the premises and personal injury to the inspector, the inspector will typically not turn on or off the main electrical disconnect or gas service to a dwelling, disassemble equipment, move furniture, appliances and stored items or excavate the grounds to facilitate inspection. All components and conditions which, by the nature of their location, are concealed, such as behind finished walls, ceilings or floors or below grade level or in difficult to inspect areas are not able to be visually inspected and thus can not be reported on. Also, some problems are latent issues which can only be discovered by living in a house for an extended period of time and cannot be detected through the few hours of a home inspection.

Although thermal cameras are a great new tool for home inspectors, thermal images or full house scans are not part of a standard home inspection and most inspectors will add a surcharge to cover the extra time required and the cost of the tool.

Environmental hazards are beyond the expertise and scope of a professional home inspection. Some of these conditions include, but are not limited to: formaldehyde, lead paint, asbestos, toxic or flammable materials, mould or mildew, soil contamination and underground fuel oil storage tanks. It is strongly recommend that you engage the services of a qualified environmental specialist to provide a full environmental assessment of the house and property before proceeding with the purchase of the home if any of these are potential issues with the property.

Other systems and conditions which are not within the scope of a standard home inspection include, but are not limited to: swimming pools, spas, pest infestations, playground equipment, efficiency measurement of insulation or heating and cooling equipment; gas leaks or carbon monoxide testing, underground drainage or plumbing, water treatment systems, septic systems, performance of smoke or fire detection systems, sprinkler systems and any systems which are shutdown or otherwise secured, well water quality, zoning ordinances, intercoms and security systems or cosmetic elements.

Now that expectations have been set and you know what is included and what is not, you are positioned to get the most out of your home inspection experience and leave the inspection confident in knowing that all critical components were covered.

Finding a new home may be one of your biggest and most important investments and in order for you to ensure that you are protecting that investment it would be best to know how to make the most out of the home inspection process.

 Why do you need a home inspection? There is no such thing as a perfect house and regardless of the age of the home you are buying, defects and deficiencies can be dangerous and costly to repair. A professional inspection service will reduce your exposure to unexpected problems and give you peace of mind about your purchase.

Making Arrangements

The time to book the home inspection is after you have completed your search process and are ready to put in an offer. Work with your real-estate professional to make your offer of purchase conditional on a home inspection. You will typically have a window of approximately five days to execute the inspection condition. This is also a good time to impose any other conditions such as WETT (wood burning appliance), septic or well inspections in the contract depending on the nature of the property. Although these specialty inspections are outside the scope of a standard home inspection, your inspector may have a recommendation of companies who can do the work for you and even co-ordinate all the inspections for you. Inspections typically take up to 3 hours for an average house, but it is best to book a 4 hour window with the home owner in case things run long. Sometime this is an iterative process to try and find a time that works for all parties.

It is best to have selected your home inspector prior to putting in an offer to avoid having to make a rash selection during the condition period. Make sure you choose a well trained and experienced inspector and have fully researched your decision. So how does one go about searching for a professional home inspector? Actually, there are several ways to get to know where to enlist the services of a home inspector. You can go to the websites for the professional inspection associations such as the Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI), or the Ontario Associations of Home Inspectors (OAHI), where they have listings of their local members. You can also use search engine listings such as Google Places, inspector web databases such as MyHomeInspector.ca or review sites such as HomeStars. You may also ask your real-estate agent or broker, or even friends and professional acquaintances.

The Inspection

Now it is time to conduct the inspection. The most important thing you can do is to make sure that you are at the inspection. This is your chance to see the issues first hand and to ask your questions.  The severity or nature of an issue can seem much different to a client who is reading a report the day after the inspection. The home inspection is not the right time to bring your extended family to see the home, this is your chance to get a handle on the condition of the property. Multiple people at the inspection will disrupt the flow of the inspection and may result in poor communication with the inspector. If you do come with a group of people, choose a delegate to be the interface with the inspector and have that person stay with them. If the inspector has to repeat information or search around the house for the client to show them something, it will cause unnecessary delays.

A good home inspector will give you a full report including the photos from the inspection, so it is not necessary to take your own photos or make your own notes unless you feel you need to. You should confirm with your inspector at the beginning of the inspection the nature of the report you will be receiving and when you will receive it. Also, during the inspection, the inspector will give you maintenance tips to maximize the life of the house. These types of tips are invaluable especially if you are a first time home buyer and are another good reason to stay with the inspector.

A home inspection is not a pass/fail test, but a thorough assessment of the condition of the property. As issues come up, try to keep your emotions in check and remain completely objective. All issues can be fixed with time and money, its just a matter of how much and the inspector can help you make that assessment. The next step is to determine the potential cost of the repairs. While home inspectors are familiar with these costs, they are not contractors and thus their inputs should only be taken as estimates. To obtain an accurate repair costs for larger items, contractors should be consulted and multiple quotes obtained. Only then will the true cost of the repair be known. After the inspection, empowered by this information you can work with your real estate professional and use it to your benefit by either asking for a price adjustment, a repair to be executed by the seller or simply make an educated decision to accept the defect.

 The Wrap-up

 The inspector will need time to themselves at the end of the inspection to complete the report. Some inspectors do the report onsite so that the client can take the information away at the end of the appointment. Out of the 3 hour inspection, between 45 minutes and 1 hour will be devoted to report writing. Although you are excited to move ahead with your purchase and you might need to get to work, try not to rush the inspector during this recording portion of the inspection. It is important to have all defects recorded accurately. This is a good time to take your measurements for window treatments, furniture placement and discuss the next steps with your realtor.  If you do not have time to wait, it is better to allow the inspector to complete the report later that day and either meet to discuss or have them email you the report.

Before leaving the inspection, make sure you have the inspectors contact information so that you can call them with any follow up questions.

Following the above steps will ensure that you get the most out of this important step of the real-estate purchase process, allowing you to move forward with your transaction in a confident and educated manner.

Buying or selling a home, choosing the right home inspector is very important to saving you money in the long run. Home inspectors provide a professional assessment of a home and are looking for age related defects, poor workmanship and safety hazards. Buyers normally employ a home inspection clause in their agreement to purchase in order to evaluate the property prior to closing the deal to protect themselves against hidden costly repairs. Sellers typically use inspectors in one of two ways: first, to establish the work that should be done prior to listing the home to eliminate surprises and price reduction requests by the buyers, secondly, to prepare an assessment report for the property which can be provided to potential buyers to maximize bids in a bidding war scenario. Both of these approaches maximize the amount that the home will sell for.

 If getting a home inspector is so crucial in buying or selling a house, then what should be considered when choosing the best home inspector out there? The home inspection profession is an unregulated field in Ontario so inspectors have a wide variety of training and experience. It is very much a buyer beware situation.

When shopping around for an inspector, ask what formal training the inspector has had. There are many excellent certification programs put on by Ontario colleges, such as the Humber College home inspection certification program. Ask if they are a member of any professional associations, such as the Ontario Association of Home Inspectors (OAHI) or Professional Engineers of Ontario (PEO). Research these associations ahead of time. Find out:

• How hard is it to become a member?
• Does the association set academic standards?
• Does the association have continuing education requirements?
• Does the association have a standard of practice or a code of ethics?

Home inspectors have often been working in another field prior to becoming an inspector. Ask about their experience and ensure that they have a relevant technical background such as engineering, architecture or construction.

Ask for a sample home inspection report. Do they provide detailed narrative reports or simple checklists? Is the report mainly information specific to the home or is it a lot of filler and template? Ask if the inspector takes photos and do they provide them with the report? Annotated defects photos are invaluable in understanding the issues and facilitating the critical communication between buyers, sellers, realtors and lawyers to get a deal to close.

Reputable inspectors and members of professional associations are required to carry Errors and Omissions (E&O) insurance, enquire about what coverage the inspector has.

Ask about how long the inspection will take. A quality inspection of a 2000 ft², 25 year old home will take approximately 3 hrs to conduct, including a thorough investigation, preparation of a detailed report and answering any questions that the client may have. Inspections of larger and older homes take longer and ideally a 4 hr window should be arranged with the home owner. Inspectors that quote inspection times as short as 2 hrs may not be as detailed as they should be. Ask if you should be at the inspection, in my opinion it is very important for you to be there. This is your chance to ask questions and see the issues first hand.

Cost should not be your number one factor when selecting an inspector. Reputable inspectors must set slightly higher prices to cover the costs of their continuing education, insurance, and high end tools and are not usually willing to negotiate. Why would you get a cheap inspection when you are making the most important investment of your life? Hidden costs in houses can easily extend into the tens of thousands and in the worst case, hundreds of thousands. Unaddressed or undiscovered safety hazards could put your family at risk. This is not the time to pinch a few pennies, the stakes are too high. Reputable inspectors will typically charge between $350 and $450 for a standard home inspections while larger and older homes cost more.

Have you ever walked down the basement stairs of a house and gotten transported back in time to your parents dark, shag carpeted, wood paneled damp, musty teenage hangout? As a home inspector, this is a common occurrence. That damp funky smell, you know the one, is (primarily) caused by dampness as low levels of water seep in through weaknesses in the foundation wall or through the porous concrete itself. The water gets absorbed into the wall studs, drywall and carpeting causing mildew, moulds, rot and leaving a noticeable odour.

Many of the homes that I look at have water intrusion problems in the basement at some level of severity. These can range from the dampness and musty smell to trickling water and full puddles. Unfortunately for the prospective buyer, often at the time of the inspection, the basement is dry. The water leakage may be seasonal requiring the right conditions such as melting snow or long periods of heavy rain to reoccur. However, for a sharp eyed home inspector, the tell tale signs of water are there if you know what to look for. In some cases though, sharp eyes aren’t even needed. The damage is really obvious. Have a look at these photos to see what I am talking about.

The sometimes not-so-subtle signs of water entering a basement that I commonly detect are:

Foundation Wall Stains

Foundation or Floor Efflorescence

Rusting of Insulation Banding, Nails, Electrical Panel Components, or Carpet Tack Strips

Rot of Stud Wall Bottom Plate

Microbial Growth

Damp Walls (Detected via Stains or using Moisture Meter)

Spalling Foundation Wall Paint

So what are the major causes of these conditions? In most cases they are readily observable and fixable. Let’s discuss.

Exterior Grading

So simple, but critical and done wrong on many homes. Very simply, surface water runs downhill towards the home and it needs to run away from the home. If the house is the low point of the property, the water gathers against the foundation wall and if there are any weaknesses (cracks, etc) the water will run into the basement.

One common situation that I see in newer homes is where the builder digs a hole for the house and installs the foundation. Afterwards, the hole around the foundation is back filled with soil but it is not adequately compacted. As time goes by, the ground around the foundation settles such that the slope of the grade, which was initially correct, reverses and actually runs towards the house directing water towards the foundation. Once this process gets started, it feeds itself as the water leads to further settling and erosion right at the house. This condition seems to actually sneak up on home owners as, despite living in the house for 10 years, they’ve never noticed or thought to correct the condition…until the basement is wet or they sell the house and I show up. I have actually seen houses that have a vertical hole in the ground right under the gutter discharge which goes right down to the foundation weeping tile. Every time it rains, there is a waterfall right beside the foundation. If the basement is not wet, it’s because of a minor miracle.

Another problem that I commonly see in Toronto is the ubiquitous shared driveway which runs between two houses to the rear parking. Usually, the driveway surface butts right up to the side of the house. Because the driveway surface (asphalt, concrete) is relatively non-porous and is sloped to the street, large quantities of gutter discharge water from the back of the house is transported down the surface of driveway trapped between the houses. If the driveway is not shaped with a lowered belly shaped valley in the middle, or swale as it is commonly known, the water runs against the houses resulting in the inevitable basement leak.

Generally, home owners often make a hash of the grading when they install walkways and gardens beside the house. Often the grade is raised too high against the brick or is sloped towards the house. Also gardens installed right beside the foundation are not a great idea because what you end up with is a wet mass of soil right in contact with the foundation for extended periods of time. This dampness can migrate through the foundation wall leading to dampness in the basement.

Grade/Foundation Height

The modern building code requires that the top of the foundation be at least 6” higher then the finished grade. The idea is to prevent snow build-up and surface water from being able to potentially spill over the top of the foundation. I often see homes where either through the installation of a garden beside the house or poor planning on the part of the builder, the finished grade is up on the brick fascia or siding. Brick veneer houses are slight more immune to this condition but with the required weep holes built into the brick veneer, water can find its way through the weep holes into the airspace behind the brick and then drain down over the top of the foundation into the basement.

Roof Water Management

Effective roof water management is imperative to having a dry basement. Again, this is one of those things which is wrong on most of the houses I inspect. A good rule of thumb is to ensure that discharge from roof gutters is at a minimum of 4ft from the house to an area where the grade is such that the water will continue to drain away from the house. Ensure that eves troughs are sloped appropriately and are kept free of debris. Eves troughs which overflow or downspouts which are disconnected, place the roof water directly beside the house. Almost every house I inspect has improper roof water management.

Based on what I have seen in the field, poor grading and roof water management are responsible for 9 out of 10 wet basements.

Foundation Cracks

There really is no such thing as a crack free foundation. Even in the absence of settling of the foundation footing, thin cracks form due to shrinkage during normal concrete curing. These cracks however, which are rarely structural problems, can form the weak points where ground or surface water can enter the basement. Cracks, if of adequate width, can be repaired from inside the basement using a technique where liquid epoxy is injected under high pressure into holes drilled into the crack from the basement. This technique is effective as the liquid epoxy flows into all the nooks and crannies and bonds tightly to the concrete sealing any pathways through the wall.

Another typical crack leak is due to the cross ties used to hold together the foundation form work during construction. These holes remain after the forms are removed, however, they are supposed to be filled with cement.  Even so, these can often be a place where a leak can occur as the workmanship of this filling process can be substandard.

Cracks on foundations can also be water proofed from the outside of the house using the techniques outlined in the next section. This can be a better option if the basement is completely finished but it can be a costly retrofit.

Exterior Foundation Water Proofing and Drainage

Older homes were built with no exterior foundation water proofing at all. These homes often have chronically damp basements as the moisture in the soil migrates, unimpeded, into the porous foundation wall and into the inside surface of the basement wall. Early attempts at basement water proofing were done by coating the outside of the basement wall with a bitumous layer (i.e “tar”). This improved the situation but the tar would dry out and crack over time and this solution did not incorporate a drainage layer.

The purpose of foundation drainage is to allow any water which is trapped against the foundation to be transported down to the weeping tile drainage at the foundation footing and away from the house. A foundation which is backfilled with compacted soil may not drain well and water can be trapped against the foundation wall, which allows it to attack any defects in the wall or, in the winter, freezing of this pooled water can cause freeze cracking of the foundation wall due to the pressure applied by the expanding ice. This is a very serious condition where horizontal cracking of the foundation occurs, which can lead to buckling of the wall.

Older homes can have their exterior water proofing upgraded, In my opinion, this is very necessary if you plan on renovating the basement of an older home for liveability. This involves digging a trench all around the house down to the footing, cleaning the wall, applying the layers, replacing the backfill and compacting.

Modern houses include a drainage layer into the foundation design which is comprised of either water permeable back fill (i.e. gravel) or a drainage board right against the foundation. Also, the foundation water proofing has been improved to include a plastic sheet barrier sandwiched between two bitumous layers. The drainage board, if used, is secured on top of the water proofing layers. The use of the drainage board provides mechanical protection between the fill and the foundation water proofing which could be punctured by jagged fill.

Basement Windows/Window Wells

Similar to foundation height above grade, all window sills must be 6” above grade. For basement windows this often requires the installation of a window well. The bottom of the well should be 6” below the window sill. Window wells must have adequate drainage to function. Typically a window well is a large basin were the soil has been dug out and filled with gravel. At the bottom of the basin, a corrugated pipe covered in a filter cloth runs vertically down and connects to the weeping tile. In some houses, the drainage is either inadequate or blocked, which can cause the window well to fill with water to the point where the water spills over the window sill and pours into the basement.

Old Below Grade Drainage

Discharge from roof gutters is sometimes routed into below grade drain pipes as a matter of convenience. These pipes can be connected to the city storm sewer, be routed to a swale on the property, or in older homes, be connected with the house weeping tile. In these older homes the below grade drainage was often made of clay pipes in various stages of failure. If the pipes crack near the house foundation, a large quantity of water can be deposited directly beside the foundation. Typically these older houses have no exterior foundation water proofing so the water often finds its way into the basement.

High Water Table

In some areas, the water table is actually higher then the bottom of the foundation and the house is literally sitting in a pool of water in the ground. These conditions require extensive interior and exterior foundation drainage connected to a sump pit in the basement with a sump pump to push the water up and away from the house. This pump will cycle periodically depending on the amount water being managed by the system.

This type of house placement may be difficult to completely waterproof. However, not all houses with sump pumps have problematically high water tables, they are installed as a precautionary measure. That being said when I see a very active sump pit I take extra care when I survey for moisture issues especially in houses with finished basements. I also am sure to warn my clients about the penalty of a potential sump pump failure -> i.e. a flooded basement. I recommend that a system with both mechanical and electrical backups be installed to protect against flooding in the event of a power or pump failure.

What should your home inspector tell you?

Any inspector should warn prospective buyers about the implications of incorrect grading, roof water management, foundation height, window wells and below grade drainage even if there are no signs of water ingression in the basement. Foundation cracks should be assessed for signs of leaks and recommendations made to the client as to potential remedies.

Finally, since a home inspector can not predict if a basement will remain dry under all rain, wind and snow conditions with a certainty, it is best to be proactive with any issues identified by the inspector and implement the changes before they become costly problems.

It is a common building practice to install window sills which are comprised of multiple sections of stone or pre-cast concrete. The joint between these sections are jointed using brick mortar. This is fine when the building is new but as the building ages and settles these joints often crack. Water can then penetrate the building envelope in large volumes causing damage to the wall assembly and mold growth.

As a home inspector I see this defect on just about every building that I inspect at various levels of severity. I always recommend the same solution but had actually not gotten around to fixing my own home. In an effort to be less of a hypocrite I set out to fix mine. Here is how I did it.

First start out by removing any loose mortar material from the joint. I also recommend removing about 1 cm of material to make room for caulking which will be used to seal the gap. 

I used the edge of a surface grinder wheel to remove the material on the top and front side of the joint to a depth of about 1 cm. Be sure to wear a face shield as this step can kick up some debris. A lot of fun when you are on a ladder at your second story windows.

To get at the portion of the mortar which the round grinder wheel could not reach I used a small punch and hammer to gently chisel out the remaining material.

This approach could probably be used to do the whole job if you do not own a grinder.

This is the what the joint looks like after the material removal phase is completed.
 

If you are like me and are a bit incapable when it comes to neat caulking, here is a good tip. Cover both sides of the sill on either side of the joint to be filled with painters tape.

Be sure to get it well adhered to prevent any caulking from squeezing underneath.

Apply the caulking to fill the void that was created previously. I used a grey silicon caulking that is made to bond to masonry.

Here is what the joint looked like after the caulking was applied.

Using a small putty knife, starting at the window, smooth the caulking flush to the sill. Remove the excess material build-up on the putty knife.

Resist the urge to keep touching and fiddling with the look of the smoothed caulking, you will probably make it look worse.

Here is the smoothed caulking.

Carefully remove the painters tape while the caulking is still wet.

Make sure you have several wet rags on hand to clean off your hands and tools. You will need them.

TADA! Here is the final product. Caulking tends to dry out in between 5 to 7 years and cracking can reappear. At that point it will need to be done again. Just pick out the old caulking and reapply using the same technique.

Maybe, we will have sold the house by then.

Houses need to have an indoor/outdoor exchange of air to replenish oxygen used by the occupants and to remove moisture and pollutants generated by:

• breathing,
• heating,
• cooking, and
• emissions from building materials and furnishings.

The homes of bygone years were constructed with ventilation systems built right into them, in a funny way. The lack of proper sealing, air or vapour barriers, minimal insulation and open fireplace chimneys allowed for the installed natural draft appliances or fireplaces which consume large quantities of combustion air from inside the house to pull fresh air in through all the leaks. As such, the air volume in the home would be turned over many times an hour, thus removing unwanted airborne contaminates, particulate and moisture.

As building technologies improved in the late 1960s and fuel prices rose in the 1970s, a focus was put on energy efficiency and a trend began towards making houses air tight. Openings were sealed, better windows and doors were installed, air and vapour retardant barriers were installed and better fitting and performing insulation was installed. As a result, homes, especially those with electric heat and thus very low air circulation, begin to suffer from poor indoor air quality, high humidity levels and mould growth. The health of the tenants, and the houses, suffered.

The building code responded to this issue by mandating the installation of a mechanical ventilation fan in every new home, a practice which is still in effect today. This system is often embodied by a three way switch which controls one of the bathroom fans, known as the principal exhaust, located beside the thermostat controls. The problems with this system are that:

• it is not operated by the furnace/air conditioner controls,
• it has to fight against well sealed homes to pull in fresh air,
• does not deliver the fresh air evenly around the home, and
• most importantly, in most homes, it is never used.

The main reasons for this system never being used are inconvenience and cost. From a cost perspective, all the air which is pulled out by the exhaust fan had money spent on it, to cool it, or to heat it and to moisture control it to a comfortable condition. From a convenience perspective, the home owner also has to remember to turn the fan on and then off again and these installed bathroom fans can be quite noisy while they are running.

A viable solution to this problem is a device called a Heat Recovery Ventilator or HRV. An HRV has an exhaust fan which is operated by the furnace and air conditioner controls. It collects air from inside the building envelope and exhausts it outdoors while inducing fresh air into the building. The energy efficiency comes via an air-to-air heat exchanger which recovers the heat from the incoming and outgoing air as defined by the season and moves it outside in the summer and inside in the winter. Simpler units take and replace the air right at the furnace and more expensive units have duct work to exhaust and supply fresh air to specific rooms of the home.

Courtesy of NRCan

An HRV is a great way to provide mechanical ventilation to your home to improve indoor air quality and is an asset and worthwhile upgrade in a home of any age.

The oil furnace has been, and continues to be, a common heating solution in areas which are not served by a natural gas service. To run an oil furnace requires an oil tank in which to store the oil and these tanks can be located inside or outside of the home, above ground or below.

The problem with oil tanks is that many are corroding from the inside out, so damage is not readily visible until it is severe. Damage often occurs because of condensation that builds up inside the tank. Since oil is lighter than water, the water goes to the bottom of the tank and corrodes the tank wall. Once the corrosion gets severe enough to perforate the tank, oil begins to leak out.

Photo Courtesy of the Illinois EPA

In above ground tanks, leaks are often visible and can be identified and contained before much oil leaks out. There are no age limit restrictions on aboveground fuel oil tanks stipulated by either code or regulation requiring the tank to be replaced, provided that the tank is not leaking.

As underground fuel oil storage tanks are buried, some underground tanks have leaked, out of sight, for years without the owner realizing it. In the process creating far reaching soil contamination. Under Ontario Regulation 213/01 (The Fuel Oil Regulation) the deadline for removal of all newer tanks was Oct. 1, 2009, however the unfortunate reality is that many unknown buried oil tanks still reside on residential properties.

It is important to note that owners of underground tanks are responsible for the costs of removing them, including the cost associated with cleaning up contamination.

To remove an underground tank, you must contact a Technical Standards and Safety Authoriy (TSSA) registered contractor to perform the task. When an underground tank is removed, the soil around the tank must be assessed for possible contamination. If a spill of fuel oil is confirmed then the hired contractor will also assist you with the clean up that is required by law.

What should your home inspector tell you?

If a fuel tank is discovered or suspected, your inspector should advise you to have the tank removed and the extent of the contamination assessed prior to closing on the house so as to not get stuck with a large removal and remediation bill.

Finally, some insurance agencies will not insure a house with an old oil tank. Consult with your insurance company before closing the deal.

We’ve all seen it, but what the heck is it?

EIFS is a lightweight synthetic wall cladding that includes foam plastic insulation and thin synthetic coatings which resembles traditional stucco. EIFS can be used on new buildings and can also be installed on existing walls, called “retrofitting”, to upgrade the appearance and provide insulation, without affecting the activities indoors during the renovation (EIFS is installed completely from the outside of the building).

The most basic and common EIFS is called a barrier EIFS (also known as a traditional or conventional EIFS). Another type is called an EIFS with Drainage, which is a barrier EIFS to which a water drainage capability has been added.

The most basic EIFS (a barrier EIFS) consists of three layers:

A layer of foam plastic insulation that comes in the form of sheets which is either mechanically fastened, bonded directly to the building sheathing or attached as a retrofit over an existing finish (such as brick).

A reinforced layer that is applied onto the face of the insulation with a trowel, consisting of a fibreglass reinforcing mesh ( or “mesh”) embedded in a cementitous adhesive. The mesh is available in various weights. The “heaviness” determines the impact strength of the surface (it’s resistance to damage by being “hit”).

A final topcoat, or finish, which is a coloured, textured paint-like material that is normally applied with a trowel. A wide range of colors and textures are available. This top coat forms the outer water sealing barrier.

EFIS installations require a high level of workmanship to function correctly and, unfortunately, often suffer from poor execution of the architectural details such as flashing, seals and transitions around windows, doors, eves troughs and roof intersections.

EIFS installations are troubling for home inspectors as even a small flaw is sufficient to allow a damaging amount of water into the wall structure, which can go unseen until the damage reaches a critical threshold. At this point, either the exterior finish fails and begins to deteriorate or the effects of the moisture and subsequent mold growth are seen inside the building. This point in time is, unfortunately, often reached long after the sale of the home has been finalized.

Moisture testing can be done to verify the extent or existence of subsurface moisture, but it requires holes to be drilled into the external finish and measurement probes inserted. This type of inspection is outside the scope of a normal home inspection and is performed by companies who specialize in this type of work.

If your inspector identifies surface cracks, punctures, face coat de-lamination or bulging or poor installation of flashing or seals, further invasive testing should be done to avoid getting caught with costly repair bills after the fact.

Vermicu-what?

Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral which is mined and has been used in  household insulation and a variety of other consumer products because of its fire resistance and thermal insulation properties.  Sounds great, right?  Sort of.  The potential issue with vermiculite is that some, but not all, of the vermiculite insulation sold and installed in homes in Canada before 1990 may contain amphibole asbestos fibres.  Yup, asbestos.  Now that complicates things.  While vermiculite-based insulation is no longer sold in Canada, it was installed in many homes in the late 1970’s and 1980’s and still remains there today.

Photo courtesy of CMHC

How does this affect me?  Let’s ask the experts.

According to Health Canada, although the overall percentages of amphibole asbestos in bulk vermiculite are very low, the airborne percentages can increase if the material is disturbed (i.e. broken or damaged).  Asbestos poses health risks only when fibres are present in the air that people breathe. When asbestos fibres are fully enclosed or are tightly bound in a product (i.e. in asbestos siding or asbestos floor tiles), there are no significant health risks.

How exposure to asbestos can affect you depends on many factors, including the concentration of asbestos fibres in the air, exposure duration, the size of the asbestos airborne fibres, and the amount of time since the initial exposure. When inhaled in significant quantities, asbestos fibres can cause asbestosis (a scarring of the lungs which makes breathing difficult), mesothelioma (a rare cancer of the lining of the chest or abdominal cavity) and lung cancer.

 What should your home inspector tell you?

As home inspectors, we consider it reasonable to assume that if your building contains older vermiculite-based insulation, the insulation may contain some amphibole asbestos.  Because of this, we always warn our clients of the potential risks. There is no way to know for certain if a product contains asbestos simply by looking at it. The presence of asbestos fibres must be verified by qualified laboratory technicians who will examine the fibres to make a determination. Your home inspector should alert you to the possible presence of asbestos and recommend that a sample be tested prior to closing the deal.

If you are considering the purchase of a home which is known to contain vermiculite-based insulation, consider the following: 

- Asbestos-containing products can cause health risks if disturbed during maintenance, renovation or demolition. However, according to Health Canada, there is currently no evidence of risk to your health if the insulation is sealed behind wallboard and floorboards, isolated in an attic, or otherwise kept from exposure to the interior environment.

- Vermiculite-based insulation that needs removal must be removed by a trained and qualified asbestos abatement and removal professional. Get several quotes and be sure to build a budget for the removal into the cost of the home.